tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2070431499072671832024-03-13T15:41:37.173-07:00Dan's Fine MiniaturesDanohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.comBlogger105125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-63319074393672586032015-10-21T11:46:00.000-07:002020-02-06T20:49:10.628-08:0057th West Middlesex...this is the 120MM 57th west middlesex drummer from Mitches Military
Models sculpted by Maurice Corry. This figure is depicted during the
battle of albuera during the peninsular war in 1811. Figure is painted
in vallejo and andrea acrylics. This particular gent was inspired by
the painting called "Die hard Drummers" by Lady Butler.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-85203394203037784072015-10-06T14:51:00.000-07:002015-11-16T14:53:51.761-08:00Another German<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is a Young Miniatures 1/10th scale bust of a German panzer officer in Palmenmuster. Not an easy pattern to paint. He's done in all Vallejo acrylics.</div>
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-54977152126826938342015-10-04T14:54:00.000-07:002015-11-16T14:58:54.677-08:00MJ Miniatures Ardennes Bust...This is a piece I finished a while ago but didn't get a chance to take
pics. It's MJ miniatures 1/9th scale german SS MG42 gunner in the
Ardennes Offensive. figures is done in vallego acrylics with the
exception of Gunze lacquers for the metallics.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-71940639220676419622015-06-03T14:59:00.000-07:002015-11-16T15:01:32.204-08:00Jumphere is a Jeff Shiu figure I finished a little while back. A little
filler for me before I start My Peleliu diorama. The figure is 120MM
and is painted as usual in Vallejo acrylics. The ground work is DAS
airdry clay with tinted Envirotex Lite 2 part epoxy clear for the water.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-58342022994206594502015-05-07T11:36:00.000-07:002015-11-17T11:46:06.275-08:00Franz & EmilHere is my latest figure/vignette I completed. It's the 2 man WWI pilot
crew from The Model Cellar. They are 120MM and sculpted by the hands
of Mike Good. Figures are painted in Vallejo acrylics.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-11697940899136182442015-04-03T07:57:00.000-07:002015-04-16T08:37:39.594-07:00"Wo Bist Du Amerikaner?"Here is my latest diorama that I have been wanting to do for a long
time. It is a diorama that takes place during the ardennes offensive
around Houffalize in December of 44'. it's a crashed M8 Greyhound
belonging to the 82nd recon of the 2nd armored div. The armored car has
lost control in the slippery, muddy/icy conditions and basically wedged
itself down a ravine very close to a stream. An SS Jagdpanzer IV and
some infantry were in the area and are taking a look see. One of the M8
crew has injured his leg in the accident and is actually hiding under
the M8 because he is immobilized from the injury. The rest of the crew
will not leave him after hearing of the Malmedy massacres so they are
huddled up behind the trailer with guns drawn ready to fight it out if
necessary. I'd like to add that I was inspired to do this diorama from
the works of 2 great modelers and 2 guys which were responsible for
getting me back into the hobby in the year 2000, Marijn Van Gils and
John Rosengrant. I know john and always loved his "Lucky Strike" dio as
well as Marijn's "Santa is Coming to Town" and many other works of these
2 dudes. This is my spin on a combo of both works with some Dan Capuano
thrown in as well. Here are the pics.<br />
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Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-2993081298577938012014-11-30T07:32:00.000-08:002015-04-16T08:17:27.403-07:0075mm American Rev Dude...here's a figure I finished a few weeks back. It's The Model Cellar 75mm
American Rev War dude sculpted by mike Blank. It was originally titled
"Valley Forge" but my client wanted it set at Guildford Courthouse.
The figure as always is painted in Vallejo acrylics, the partial fence
is scratched from balsa wood and the groundwork is an array of different
stuff. Snow is a woodland scenics product called soft flake. I'm just
getting back to doing commissions again after a while, family
obligations, daughter starting high school, death in the family, that
kinda stuff so I've been a bit scarce lately. To those whom I owe
commissions and boxarts please be patient, I will get to you.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-12110288449289540162014-10-07T07:20:00.000-07:002015-04-16T07:28:21.669-07:00Tiny Little Scene...this is my latest work, more of a figure painting exercise but a nice
little time filler before I'm onto my next project. The SS figures
range from Jaeger, Jaguar, Evolution, warriors and I think Yosci or
another Japanese manufacturer. The figures are mostly stock with the
exception of Hornet heads and slight change of weapons here and there.
It's supposed to depict a few SS troops having a disagreement over
surrendering or fighting to the last. The 250 is a Dragon offering, the
building is a modified Tiger Models offering and I think the light post
and wall lantern is from Mini Art. The roof section is scratchbuilt and
the whole scene including the figures are Vallejo Acrylics.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-44925050214375065172014-09-09T09:49:00.000-07:002014-09-26T07:17:28.168-07:00120MM US paratrooper...here is a piece by Mitches Military Models sculpted by Maurice Corry.
This is the second time around for me with this figure. The original was
82nd airborne. My client wanted this dude to be 101st but he wanted it
to be more d-day appropriate hence the jute cloth on the helmet along
with the camo net and med pack. Of course after I added the med pack a
friend of mine told me only the 82nd wore the med packs on the helmet on
d-day but I have seen pics of the med pack worn by the 101st in pics
that claimed to be d-day but could be research gone wrong so I really
dont know. The figure as always is painted in vallejo acrylics and the
fence was made from icicle pop sticks and an old Verlinden 1/16 scale
sign set to give it some setting ID<br />
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Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-15376938854918276802014-08-13T14:00:00.000-07:002014-08-13T14:10:10.970-07:00Structure Modeling and Finishing Modelling, Painting and Placing Urban Structures in Realistic Diorama Settings (Part 1)When I was first
approached about writing an article for digitaldioramas.com I
thought about it for about 10 seconds and said YES!!! I never wrote
a How-To article before but I figured if I explained it in laymen's
terms and added some pictures it would be easily understandable. So
here goes.<br />
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<b>the good, the bad and the busted </b><br />
At first glance when opening one
of those factory packed plaster prefab buildings you can be pretty
disappointed and intimidated. The parts are often warped, cracked,
broken, have air bubble holes and sometimes totally smashed. I have
not seen any plaster kit without at least one of these afflictions,
and frequently with two or all of them. Not to worry though, its not
that bad. The one good thing about working with plaster is it is
easy to repair with some white glue, modeling putty (I like the
Tamiya gray) and patience. <br /><br />Once past the general condition
of the pieces, the first thing I always notice is that the parts
rarely fit properly, have tons of flash, and the buildings never
have interior details (man I miss those Synergy days). <br /><br />
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<b>preparation and construction</b></div>
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Construction begins with first
sanding the parts with a heavy grit sandpaper. Don't worry about
sanding marks, they will be corrected later with putty or covered in
white glue. During this process ALWAYS wear a mask. The dust from
sanding is horrible on the nasal cavities. <br /><br />After dry fitting
the parts it's time to use some heavy-duty amounts of white glue (as
thick as you can get it) to affix the parts together. The main thing
to remember is that this takes patience because white glue does not
dry right away but when it bonds with plaster the join is like
concrete. When trying to get the parts to adhere to one another it's
a very good idea to use a home made type of jig, clothes pins,
rubber bands, wood blocks, and whatever to hold the pieces in
alignment while the glue sets.<br /><br />The reason why I like using
thick amounts of white glue is because it helps when I fill the open
joints with putty and, although white glue is not sandable, Tamiya
putty, my preferred blending medium for plaster buildings, is. You
can use Tamiya putty very liberally as this is a very forgiving
material. You can also hide your errors pretty easily with battle
damage or accessories later. <br /><br />After the putty stage has dried
(at least one day after it has been applied) you are ready to sand
and feather the joints. Again, wear a mask as this part is also
messy. As far as construction goes on the basic shell you are pretty
much done at this stage. If you desire to add interior detail it can
easily be scribed into the soft plaster. <span style="color: #000066;">[Editors note: <a class="linkUNDERLINE" href="http://shop.afvmodeller.com/customer/product.php?productid=16195&cat=256&page=1&XCARTSESSID=dcf987f90589241775fa441b2e46bb37" target="_blank">Issue Number 9 of AFV Modeller</a> has a great article
describing how to add interior details to buildings - very highly
recommended reading!</span><br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: #000066;">battle damage</span></b><br />
If you intend to add any battle
damage such as chips, holes (from large caliber shells) or small
caliber pock marks to your building you must do so at this stage
before painting. You can easily accomplish this by gouging the
surface with a sharp X-Acto knife or a Dremel tool. One IMPORTANT
note as far as realism goes. If you are going to chip away at stucco
type finishes on buildings or concrete finishes remember that under
stucco or concrete veneer there are bricks which you must scribe
with a scribing tool or an X-Acto knife (these types of buildings
are very common in WWII Europe). After scribing the bricks it would
also be a good idea to lightly sand the scribed area with FINE
sandpaper before painting. <br /><br />One final useful tip concerning
battle damage. If you break off a part of your building, like if you
are making a large caliber hole right through or just removing a
piece like a wall end for battle damage, the break in the plaster
always looks unnatural; it's usually pointy, sharp edged and the
break is too smooth. <br /><br />There are basically two ways to
approach this, each depending on the type of structure you are
working with. First, for brick or brick and stucco structures, you
can gouge out little pieces with your trusty X-Acto knife to make it
look really beat up. If it's a brick section you must remember to
rescribe the brick on the ends to reveal the stairstepping of the
remaining exposed bricks. <br /><br />If it's not brick, the most
effective way I have found is to make the edge very jagged and then
smear on some white glue followed by some fine grit sand. Once that
has dried it looks very random and rough, exactly the effect we're
after. This would be very common in middle eastern or Asian scenes.
The buildings there are, for the most part, composed of concrete and
wood. <br /><br />Also note that concrete structures usually require
concrete reinforcements imbedded in the concrete slabs. I use
soldering wire to replicate this detail. Just drill holes where you
want them to be, insert your solder wire, and then bend the and
twist them up and voila!, you have a very detailed and destroyed
looking concrete wall with steel reinforcements sticking out
everywhere. (I love that look <img height="15" src="http://olimpox.dyndns.org:8080/local/modelismo/Kits/Predios/frames_files/icon_smile.gif" width="15" />). Now we are ready for
the fun part. PAINT!!!<br />
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<b>let the painting begin</b></div>
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Painting urban structures
(buildings) is much the same as painting armor. Think about it. They
are both in the same environments and are exposed to the effects of
heat, cold, rain, snow, dirt, and other influences so why not paint
them the same way? <br /><br />I start with a <b>basecoat</b> of acrylic
black spray paint right from the can. It doesn't matter what brand
you use just paint it all black. After that has dried for the normal
drying time you can now start laying in your base colors.
<br /><br />For <b>brick</b> I like Model Master rust darkened just a
bit. For <b>concrete</b> I mix light gray with some brown and yellow
until the color I want is just right. If you choose to use different
shades for you bricks that's FINE there are certainly no guidelines
for what color is correct for brick (your taste is just fine). This
is not a conversation about the correct shade of German Dunkelgelb:
one of the dumbest topics I have ever heard — how do you know what
exact shade of dark yellow was on German armor 60 years ago?? — let
me stop I'm getting upset <img height="15" src="http://olimpox.dyndns.org:8080/local/modelismo/Kits/Predios/frames_files/icon_evil.gif" width="15" />). </div>
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<b>paint application & drybrushing</b></div>
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When I lay my base colors down I
do it in a cloud pattern using an airbrush. I just try to accentuate
the highlights while still leaving most of the black in the
crevices. After this is done DO NOT do any weathering yet, It's time
for a shot of lacquer flat coat to protect that base coat from the
vigorous weathering process. After the flat coat I usually do a
light black wash (acrylic) just to dirty it up a bit followed by
another coat of flat lacquer. Now we are ready for some serious
drybrushing. <br /><br />Just a note about drybrushing; some people seem
to think drybrushing is a thing of the past NOT SO!!! Look at some
of the works of Sheperd Paine, bar-none the greatest miniature
artist and diorama builder of all time, in my humble opinion if you
doubt the effectiveness of drybrushing. <br /><br />I like to start dark
and then drybrush in successively lighter shades. But remember, you
must allow ample drying time between drybrushings otherwise the
paint will just mix together. I often do a coat of flat lacquer in
between every drybrush coat so this does NOT happen. The final
drybrush color will be straight white. This really brings out all
the highlights and raised details whether it be brick color,
concrete color, brown, tan etc. After this step you will be doing
your final coat of flat lacquer finish. By the way I prefer to spray
the flat coat from an airbrush thinned with 40% lacquer thinner and
60% flat finish.</div>
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<b>pastels to the rescue</b></div>
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Now comes the single most
important part to weathering your buildings, and I cannot stress
this enough PASTELS!!!!! These things are the greatest, I swear by
them. I usually work with the earth tones only. <br /><br />My first
step is to use a dark brown color ground into a fine powder with a
emery board. I take a 000 brush and brush the powder into every
crevice on the structure. After that I do the same thing with black
right over the brown — this is a great effect, it looks very rustic.
<br /><br />Now use a thicker brush to apply pastel powder in brown and
rust colored tones on areas of the building where such weathering
may appear. Effects like rain streaks, rust running down from metal
window gates and light fixtures are very well executed using
pastels. If practiced adequately this can really turn out great.
<br /><br />Now, lets switch gears a bit here. Normally, the space
between bricks is filled with concrete or mortar. Whatever you do,
DO NOT use pure white for this as it never looks real. You want to
use a light gray or concrete color to accomplish reproduce this
detail. Here's how I do it. After the white highlight drybrush I
airbrush the protective flat lacquer coat. After the lacquer has
dried I thin a suitable shade of gray acrylic paint to a consistency
a little thicker than a wash and I apply it with a thick brush onto
the protected surface where the bricks are. Next, I dip a paper
towel into acrylic thinner and wipe it on the brick surface,
removing the gray paint from the brick surface but leaving it in the
mortar lines. This effect looks really good and the lacquer coat
that preceded this step protects the brick color.</div>
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One thing I should have
mentioned earlier; if you are going to do this step to your brick
finish you must do it before the application of pastels as
water/acrylic thinner/paint and pastels DO NOT like each other when
mixed together. Pastels are <span class="linkUNDERLINE">always your
last step</span>. If you want to do a flat coat right before the
application of pastels that's OK too. Also, If you can do your
pastel process just as the lacquer flat coat is drying they will
adhere better and further dull the finish resulting in a flatter
surface and better adhesion of subsequent pastel treatments. If you
are thinking about sealing your pastels after the pastel process
with a flat coat — bad idea. The flat coat negates the pastel effect
and gobbles it right up. That's pretty much it for the painting
phase. <br />
<br />
<b>interior and external fixtures</b><br />
As far as building interiors and
add-ons such as light fixtures, signs, rain drains, electrical boxes
and the like go, I think they are a must to enhance your diorama.
People just love them. When people not familiar with the modeling
industry see such things as wood floors, pictures, drapes, and
etched windows they flip out and the details becomes a conversation
piece and in a sense that's what a diorama really is.<br />
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For most of my
interiors I use what's commercially available with most coming from
the Custom Dioramics line, Alexander The Great and some Plus Model
Stuff. Other areas worth exploring are Hallmark stores or any stores
that sell doll houses and accessories. However, the single most
important resource for building interiors is balsa wood. This stuff
is cheap as hell and can be cut and broken to resemble floors,
roofs, window frames, etc.. Another good resource is THE HOBBY SHOP.
The Plastruct and brass rod section are a must as there is a wealth
of stuff to be used there. <br /><br />Well that's it for Part 1. I hope
this helps out some modelers out there even experienced ones just
looking to experiment with techniques they have not tried before.
Part 2 will be about rubble, debris and other common street
accessories that would normally accompany urban structures.
<br /><br />By Dan "Dano" Capuano <br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-7610011558840129522014-08-01T09:50:00.001-07:002014-09-26T07:57:44.006-07:00Alpines 1/16 WW2 US Infantry<br />
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one of my latest figures. This is the Alpine US NCO. We all know of
the great quality of Alpines figures so I'm not gonna dwell on that.
Figure is painted as always in Vallejo acrylics.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0New York, NY, USA40.7127837 -74.00594130000001840.3275957 -74.651388300000022 41.0979717 -73.360494300000013tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-24827015678526516452014-07-31T09:45:00.000-07:002014-09-09T08:07:46.963-07:00Verlinden US WWI BAR gunner<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Here
is my latest piece i'm working on. Verlinden US WWI BAR
gunner. Getting to the coat tonight. Figure needs a splash of color.
Anybody got any references of any helmet insignias that might be
suitable for this chap?</span></span><br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0New York, NY, USA40.7127837 -74.00594130000001840.3275957 -74.651388300000022 41.0979717 -73.360494300000013tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-68859296033743261292014-07-21T09:30:00.000-07:002014-09-09T07:54:05.761-07:005 Man US Marine Stretcher Team from AC Models<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">I've
integrated the kit base with some celluclay, gravel, PE palm
fronds,twigs and moss. I'm hoping to get to paint later tonite. I put
sticks in the predrilled holes that will accept the brass pins in 1 foot
of each figure. I inserted sticks so that the holes are not closed by
runny celluclay and white glue. Will keep you all posted as I go.</span></span><br />
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here is a couple of boxart photos of a US Marine stretcher team by AC
Models. They are in 75MM and was quite a fun project. Figures are done
in Vallejo acrylics along with MIG pigments and various PE palm fronds
and the like.<br />
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Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-54272713243039422132014-06-28T09:18:00.000-07:002014-08-05T11:19:20.744-07:00WWI Figure<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-3839775775216039532014-05-11T09:05:00.000-07:002014-08-05T11:20:01.319-07:00Best WW2 Award from MFCA for my Jeff Shiu 200mm MG34 Gunner<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-1774426533288055932014-02-17T10:01:00.000-08:002014-02-20T10:03:14.327-08:00Life Miniatures Stalingrad Dude...Here is my latest work. It's the excellent bust by Life Miniatures of a
German Grenadier at Stalingrad. I'm not sure about the glasses so I
just left them on unfastened so the client can decide how to display
him. As always Vallejo Acrylics and Citadel for the metalics.<br />
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Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-87195577372921858762014-02-06T09:48:00.000-08:002014-02-20T09:52:19.349-08:00Stormtroopers 8th Wisconsin Eagle Bearer...here is my latest commission work. It's the Stormtroopers 1/10th scale
Union bust of an 8th Wisconsin Eagle bearer. The piece certainly has a
different appeal than most with the staff and the eagle on it and as
such made it pretty difficult to photograph. The figure was painted
mostly in Vallejo acrylics with the exception of the tunic which was
done with the Andrea blue paint system but I use the system backwards.
More suitable for my comfort zone of painting.<br />
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Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-17065204402641562602014-01-20T09:29:00.000-08:002014-02-20T10:06:37.302-08:00120MM US paratrooper...Been quite a while since I have posted but I have been busy with many
projects at one time. I figured I'd post this figure I snuck in
between the 3 projects I have going. This is Mitches Military Models
120MM US paratrooper sculpted by Maurice Corry. Great figure sculpt as
we who are familiar with Mr. Corry would expect. As always the figure is
finished in Vallejo Acrylics.<br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-41233677662495092162014-01-17T14:03:00.002-08:002014-01-17T14:03:42.223-08:00Infancy of a Dark Era...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-59576474761974032592014-01-10T14:12:00.000-08:002014-01-17T14:24:27.229-08:00No clue where this is going...<span class="userContent">I'm calling this one done even though I have
no idea what to do with it since it will not appear in my Kharkov dio. I
guess I'll contemplate that as I'm sitting in bumper to bumper traffic
right now on the FUCKING L.I.E.!!!</span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Tracks installed. Gotta do some extra details and pretty much done. Just gotta wait for my decal sheet from Archer.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Added dead leaves and winter grass. Now to make a tarp for the engine deck.</span></span><br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-62638763642148266822014-01-04T09:18:00.000-08:002014-08-05T12:00:38.172-07:00Latest Diorama - "Looking for Ivan"<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Starting a new piece. Think Kharkov, PzIII, panzer riders, snow, mud and Russians! Thats all I got for now.</span></span> </div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Getting
a little closer. Improvised roadblock has been laid down along with
rubble, shell hits and primer. Will be filling in the rubble painting
and other details as i go.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Little more progress before i muddy it up, add snow and slush.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Here
is my german lineup for my kharkov dio. Some are converted, some
slightly more than others. 3 tankers for the pzIII are there also.
Some of these may not be included in the final scene as i always like to
have a plethora of figures because it gives me many options. Will keep
you posted as i go.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">This
will be my pz.iii setup for my kharkov dio. Model was built graciously
by brian tears and will be finished by me. Figures are a mix of Tank
and Evolution. Headphones were from the Tank set and the wiring is
stretched sprue. This will probably represent a pziii M from eithe Das
Reich or Totenkopf. I still have not decided whether i will go with the
standard open guide horn 40cm tracks or the osketten. Ill keep you
posted.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Here
is the start of my worn winter whitewash for my Pz.III ausf. M for my
Kharkov dio. Rave 4X MEGA hold hairspray used (pump not aerosol).
Tomorrow I will start the weathering process.</span></span> </div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Managed
to deal with my paint disaster on the pzIII. It's a bit more worn than
i had planned but it's growing on me. Got a lot of work done on the
turret but got a ton to do on the hull. I think once i get done with
the weathering, add pigments, mud and snow it will look the part. I was
looking through my reference photos in books and such and by the end of
winter those whitewashes were pretty mangy looking. I'll post up more
photos tomorrow night</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Gettin her nice and dirty in the kharkov mud!</span></span> </div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">More progress on the pzIII. Left the track pretty loose so i can articulate the wheels a bit.</span></span></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Gettin some work done on the tankers and tank riders.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Little more of a close up. Sorry for the quality, fucking i phone cam blows.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Few more tank riders completed since last update. Few more to go.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Quick overall shot of how this is panning out. Finished with the germans and am now onto the russians. Three more to go.</span></span><br />
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<br />Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-42079730399399404322013-10-03T12:10:00.000-07:002013-10-08T12:13:00.472-07:00Latest Diorama - "Shell Shock"<span class="userContent">Here is my latest diorama titled "Shell
Shock". It depicts a bunch of British WW1 infantry toward the end of the
battle at the Somme. it is titled "Shell Shock" because the young
private in the overcoat has lost his nerve as the platoon rea<span class="text_exposed_show">dies
to go over the top. It was very difficult to manipulate his face to
make him look like he is in deep distress. In the end I even added tears
to his face which are a little tough to pick up in the pics but with
the naked eye they are very visible. The figures are a mish mosh of
sorts since there are not an abundance of Brit WW1 figs available in
120MM. They include figures from the Jaguar range, David J. Parkins, Oz
Models (Phil Walden sculpt), Victory Miniatures, The Lost Batallion as
well as some trench sections and accessories from Jon Smith Modelbau.
Some of the figures are slightly converted and others are stock. I had
only 2-1/2 months to get this done due to my client picking this diorama
up at this years annual MMSI show so I basically worked day and night
from start to finish. Also I'm not really a WW1 guy so my knowledge is
very limited on the subject but with some references and help from
friends I tried to adhere to basic accuracy. As always the figures and
all groundwork are done in Vallejo Acrylics, Citadel metallics, AK
Interactive and MIG Productions products.</span></span><br />
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Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-52380940748799022732013-08-25T03:30:00.000-07:002013-09-10T10:52:47.055-07:00Most Recent Update: Latest piece I'm working on...<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here's <span style="color: blue;"><b>Fig#1</b></span> I'm working on for the trench dio. This is a Jaguar figure basically stock. Should have him finished up in a day or so. 120MM, btw.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: blue;">Fig #1</span></b> temporarily in place.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: blue;">Fig #2</span></b> (Lewis gunner) in progress.</span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">British dude <b><span style="color: blue;">#2</span></b> ready for the trench.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Onto figure <b><span style="color: blue;">#3</span></b>. Really gettin in a groove now!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />Little more work on the Phil Walden figure who is actually an anzac but I've concerted him to a Brit. His helmet cover is done and the uniform is base coated and outlined. Will have more progress in the next couple of days.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />A little more work on the Phil Walden WW1 fig.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here is the finished Phil Walden figure. I will temporarily place him in the trench dio. Now onto figure #4.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Face done on fig #4. Man this dude is ugly! For you hockey fans this guy could be Lanny McDonald's twin brother.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Quick i phone snap of the overall diorama. I finished fig #4 tonight. 4 more to go...</span></span><div class="" style="clear: both;">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Fig #5 on its way. This one is from the Firing Line range from David J. Parkins Models. Will post more progress tomorrow.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/p480x480/1239463_10200617112501653_1185708146_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span>Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-57208467441378792692013-08-14T13:28:00.000-07:002013-08-21T13:28:41.843-07:00UPDATE 5: Latest piece I'm working on...<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">First weathering stage of the trench. Plenty more to come.</span></span></span></span><br />
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Danohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02331965992275990612noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207043149907267183.post-9641536528745842922013-08-11T16:00:00.000-07:002013-08-21T13:27:18.670-07:00UPDATE 4: Latest piece I'm working on...<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span class="userContent">Here is the trench base with the base colors
laid out. Will start the weathering process of the mood and corrugated
metal tomorrow along with the tweaking of the ground work.</span></span></span><br />
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